Saturday, September 16, 2017

Five Places Worth Another Visit


One of the most obnoxious things to hear from tourists as they travel is that they’ve “done” a country. “Have you done Laos?” “Yeah I did Laos right after I did Cambodia.”

As foreigners, each new place we visit is a rich, diverse, complicated place where people actually live. It’s more than just a vacation spot.

Given the time and money, you could return over and over and discover new things each time. You could live there for years and still not understand exactly how everything works!

With that in mind, here are the top 5 places worth a second (or third!) visit.

5. VIETNAM
probably Bui Vien in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

One trip to Vietnam is not enough.
On your first trip you can explore the south. I went in January 2014 during Tet or Vietnamese New Year. Ho Chi Minh City aka Saigon is a city that buzzes with incredible traffic, delicious coffee, and neatly groomed public parks.
A tour of the nearby Cu Chi tunnels is an eye-opening experience. Don’t take it personally when the tour guides speak about “American devils.” Remember this is history from the Vietnamese perspective, and the US has been involved in plenty of shady business throughout history.

After the city, take some time to unwind at the beach. Hop on a bus and head directly east until you reach Vung Tau. Check out the Imperial Hotel for an opulent, colonial-style getaway complete with private beaches and marble statues around every corner. I enjoyed the entire wheel of brie and fresh bread in the breakfast buffet each morning. Go big or go home, right?
outdoor show for Tet

On your second trip to Vietnam, it’s time to head to the north. I was there in December 2015. Try to stay in the capital city Hanoi and leave enough time to travel to the famously beautiful Ha Long Bay.


If you want to avoid the crowds but still enjoy the limestone islands along the water, I’d suggest skipping the touristy bay cruises and heading down to Cat Ba Island on the southeastern edge of the bay. With a sleepier atmosphere, Cat Ba Island is full of fishermen instead of touts.

Lan Ha Bay on Cat Ba island, Vietnam

December in the north of Vietnam is anything but tropical, so don’t forget your close-toed shoes and some warm-weather clothes for the evening.

After two trips, Vietnam still has plenty to see. The Mekong River Delta in the far south looks gorgeous in photos and has extended boat tours available. In the far north near the Chinese border, there are bright green rice terraces situated beautifully on the mountainside. Guess I’ll have to go back!

4. MYANMAR (BURMA)
Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon, Burma

Tourism to Myanmar (Burma) is developing rather quickly, although the country has only been open to tourists since 2015. One of the most ethnically diverse countries in the world, Burma has plenty of culture for visitors to discover.

The first place most foreigners see is Yangon, the Burmese capital city until 2006. In the central region of Burma, Yangon is famous for the sizable golden Shwedagon Pagoda.

With foreign technology sweeping the country, not everyone is prepared. In June 2014 I saw people taking their first rides on escalators. I even saw a family put their baby through the metal detector on the way into the pagoda.

Since tourism is relatively recent, Yangon doesn’t have a disdain for tourists just yet. One taxi driver took me to eat mohinga, a Burmese fish stew, before he took me to the airport. He said he couldn’t imagine someone leaving the country without trying his favorite food. He even paid.


Burma is a travel destination that visitors will find refreshingly untouched.

downtown Yangon

After Yangon, the second most photographed place in Burma has to be Bagan, the northern plains city dotted with thousands of ancient temples. Stacy and I took my cousin Kike for a visit in April 2016.

Bagan, Myanmar

With the country opening new areas of the country to tourism each year, there is new information all the time.

I have seen photos of untouched islands encircling crystal clear lagoons in the south. I heard a train ride across the country is breathtaking.

With so little information about the country available to foreigners, maybe we need to visit to learn more.


3. HONG KONG
view from Victoria Peak, Hong Kong

For any traveler avoiding the expensive Chinese visa fee, Hong Kong is the closest we can get to the Chinese mainland. I went for a visit in February of 2016.


The city is gorgeous and reminiscent of San Francisco: tons of buildings crammed onto hillsides, all cascading down to a beautiful bay. 

soho neighborhood in Hong Kong

If you get excited about fireworks, a good time to go is during Chinese New Year. Before this visit, I had never seen monkey-shaped fireworks before. I didn’t even know it was possible. The CNY fireworks display is definitely a marvel worth seeing.


If you like to shop, remember that much of the city is shut down for the holiday while shop owners spend time with their family. For those who like to party though, HK mainstays are all open. 

Causeway Bay in Hong Kong

Natural scenery is always open too. I climbed Victoria Peak and rode the unique local transportation--these double-decker vintage streetcars.


With a rich history as a major port city of Asia, it would take plenty of visits to Hong Kong before a traveler could get bored.

2. PHILIPPINES
El Nido, Palawan island, Philippines

The Philippine Islands have everything: modern cities, postcard beaches, delicious food, and great people. I took Stacy to the Philippines for her birthday in August of 2016 and I was overjoyed to find there is just nothing uncomfortable or unwelcoming about the country.

Filipinos are definitely the Latinos of Asia. Everyone speaks perfect English so getting around is 100% less intimidating than most other places in Asia. The extrajudicial killings in the news at the time are a little nuts, but we can’t hold government actions against the entire country.

The beauty of the water is impressive in the Philippines. From beaches to waterfalls to the plentiful ocean, a visitor would be hard-pressed to get tired of all the opportunities to be in nature. Whether swimming, hiking, or snorkeling, the Philippines has endless natural attractions that would take multiple visits to explore. 

off the coast of Mactan Island, Philippines
Kawasan Falls in Cebu, Philippines
oldtown + downtown Manila

Beyond nature, there is plenty of modern convenience as well.  I had been hearing horror stories about Manila for years; People told me it’s dangerous, drab, and smelly.  On my trip, I saw quite the opposite--hip restaurant culture, excellent cocktail bars, great local food, and the prices were super affordable.

Some areas of Manila can be rough around the edges, but they still have the open Filipino culture to make visitors feel welcome and enjoy their prized local delights. In Pasay City, a friendly prostitute taught Stacy and I how to eat our first (and last for me!) balut. Hospitality at its finest.



1. CAMBODIA
ride bikes up Phnom Krom 'mountain' in Siem Reap

Who can talk about Cambodia without mentioning Angkor Wat?
Angkor Wat near Siem Reap, Cambodia

After my visit in Thanksgiving of 2014, the famous ruins of the Angkor archeological site stayed in my mind for months. An ancient wonder, these ruins have fascinated the world since they were built during the time of Angkor during the 8th-14th centuries.

Impressive in size, layout, and architecture, no wonder this is Southeast Asia’s major tourist draw. 

Angkor Wat near Siem Reap, Cambodia

It’s an ancient temple complex but it looks like an entire city. It. Is. Huge.

Stone roads, statues, massive multi-room buildings, and fortified walls as far as the eye can see. In one day, you can maybe see portions of the first two temples Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom. In a week you can explore the main sites, but a serious visitor would need a month to see all of the lesser-known temples that make up this entire archaeological site.

Who could even think about cramming in a trip to Siem Reap and the capital Phnom Penh in the same visit?

Even larger than the Incan city of Machu Picchu, the sheer size of Angkor will have you dreaming about your return visit to Cambodia.


What about you? What places have you been that you would go again?

Saturday, September 9, 2017

Why I Don’t Ride Tuk-Tuks in Bangkok


Ah the tuk-tuk: the world-famous motorized pedicab from Thailand. A three-wheeled motorbike with a passenger bench; it’s the adorable vehicle you see in all the tourist photos.

Brightly painted in primary colors with shiny chrome guardrails and quirky personal decorations from the driver, it’s easy to see why everyone wants to ride—and take photos—in a tuk tuk.

Every country with a dire need for cheap transportation has its own version of the motorized rickshaw. It’s the resourceful way to turn your cheap, personal motorbike into an income. I’ve ridden the mototaxis in Peru and the tricycle of the Philippines but nowhere have I seen them more prevalent than in Thailand.

mototaxi pulling a friend in the Sacred Valley, Peru
tricycle in El Nido, Philippines 

About 20,000 tuk-tuks are registered as taxis in Thailand, 9,000 in Bangkok alone. Some people have personal tuk-tuks for trips to the grocery store, and countless hotels have tuk-tuk shuttles for sending customers to the BTS skytrain in style. They. Are. Everywhere.

In parts of Bangkok, it’s common to see tuk-tuk drivers milling around outside a tourist attraction. “Tuk-tuk?” they shout at passing tourists.

tuk tuks waiting outside the 7-11 near Thammasat University 

So when visitors come through Bangkok they are surprised when I tell them that I don’t take tuk-tuks. Like, ever.

Sorry. Maybe a few friends have been disappointed because it was on their travel bucket list. I mean, sure you can take one for the experience but it’s not like I use them just because I live here.

I don’t have anything against them…they just don’t make sense.

They make sense in the countryside. Big open roads mean tuk-tuks can squeeze by car traffic and be a cheap, convenient way to get from A to B. Plus, it’s nice to hop in the back and feel the fresh, natural breeze on the way.

my girlfriend Stacy & I riding a tuk tuk in Chiang Mai, Thailand 
Chiang Mai, Thailand 

I remember a late-night tuk-tuk ride in Chiang Rai towards the center of town. We needed a lift and our driver approached from down a dark road in a blaze of brightly-lit glory with a proud smile

tuk-tuk in Chiang Rai 
L-R in Chiang Rai: rickshaw, songthaew, bicycle, motorbike, car 

But in Bangkok traffic? In Bangkok weather? With Bangkok pollution? That’s a no for me, dawg.

Bangkok has two kinds of weather: hot and rainy.
Tuk-tuks are open-air vehicles.
You do the math.

If I am going to sit in traffic in the middle of the city, I’ll do it with a roof over my head in the air-conditioned luxury of a taxi cab.

Or if I’m in a rush, I hop on a motorbike taxi. Motorbikes are slimmer than tuk-tuks and can weave through cars so I still make it to work on time. Without having to sit in exhaust fumes, thanks.

motorbike taxis on Sukhumvit Road 

Maybe it’s because I live on Sukhumvit Road, the busiest thoroughfare in all of Thailand. There are just so many better ways to get around this city. For 50 baht I can get all the way to work on the back of a motorbike taxi AND get a free hair blowout at the same time!

About once a year I’ll catch a tuk-tuk in Chinatown at 5am when the taxis have cleared out. Even then, I just get out when I see a regular taxi. I dont want to go across town in slow motion. Once I took at tuk-tuk from a wholesale market, but only because I knew the exact price.

bumper-to-bumper traffic on Sukhumvit 

Did I mention that it’s hard to get a fair price from a tuk-tuk driver in Bangkok? They are so used to tourists who have no clue about local pricing or the value of the Thai baht that they don’t blink at a 500-baht ride.

When I see tourists riding in tuk-tuks I like to play a game. It’s called Guess-How-Much-They-Paid-Based-On-Their-Clothes. Elephant pants are about 300 baht per person. Bandage dresses and high heels at night jumps to 350.

Travel blogs like Lonely Planet always recommend bargaining for tuk-tuk rides. As if it's possible to do. In English. By tourists.

Even if you got down to 150 baht for EVERYBODY for one ride—which let’s be honest won’t be further than a kilometer or two—the fare is so inflated it’s laughable.

As a point of comparison, I pay about 180 baht for a taxi from my place in Thonglor all the way out to either airport.

Hey, I don’t blame tuk tuk drivers for squirreling money out of people, but not me.

late night tuk-tuk ride in Siem Reap, Cambodia 

With my foreign face and speaking Thai, the only response I’ve ever gotten for asking a fair price is a simple rejection. No driver needs to put forth the effort to drive me anywhere when tourists will pay their entire day’s salary with a single ride.

So that’s the long and short of it. Tuk-tuks are a famous mode of transportation here in Thailand. I love them for being a cheap, convenient, and whimsical way to get around in countryside towns. That said, I won’t be taking one in Bangkok anytime soon.

tuk-tuk in Siam area of downtown Bangkok 

Monday, August 28, 2017

Museum Mondays: Kuala Lumpur

On my first trip to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia I spent 30 minutes in this museum before rushing off to the catch a flight. Those 30 minutes were so interesting, that for years I was hoping to return and spend some more time here. 

Thanks to Air Asia having a hub in KL, I finally made it back to Malaysia to spend the afternoon at this exquisite Islamic Arts Museum of Malaysa. 

If you are wondering what to do on your trip to Kuala Lumpur, the IAMM is a great option. For non-Muslims like myself who want to learn about Islam or for Muslims who want to see the art in their religion, the museum delivers.

Welcome to #museummondays. On Mondays we talk about museums. 

Museum Architecture

Located in the KL Bird Park with a lot of other museums and attractions, you can find a lot to do nearby if you are on vacation.

The museum itself is in a gorgeous building that features tons of Islamic architecture in its own right. A beautiful courtyard, a cafe with etched glass walls, a sparkling white and gold dome...there is plenty of beauty to admire in the building itself.

courtyard of the IAMM

the central dome of the museum

Mosques of the World

Maybe the most educational exhibit, a giant hall features scale models of some of the most famous mosques from around the world. There are floor plans explaining how to distinguish between mosque architecture by region. 

can you guess which mosque this is?

La Alhambra of Granada, Spain

Tranquerah Mosque of Melaka, Malaysia

Illuminated Manuscripts

If it's Qurans that you want, IAMM has them. Book after book of beautifully decorated pages, all styles of Arabic script in multiple languages, and bound Islamic scriptures of all sizes and shapes. Religious or not, anyone can appreciate the hours of devotion required to produce art at this level of detail.

quran with decorative pages

golden writing

circle quran

Other Art

Besides architecture and Qurans, the museum also features Islamic paintings, historical maps, and the traditional costumes of various people who make up the Muslim world.

Islamic paintings

old maps

Of note: The English language descriptions are excellent throughout the museum.

This museum is not only educational, but each and every corner of it displays beauty and thoughtfulness. Even the green marble restrooms are pretty.

One of my favorite museums in the world.

Do you want to join me for Museum Mondays? Tell me about your favorite museum in the comments! 

Stacy + I enjoying a longer visit to IAMM

Monday, August 21, 2017

yikes

I'm starting this blog back up again. Its been almost 6 years since my last post.

I made a new header and everything. Does anybody know what famous temple is in the picture?

Better question: Do people still read blogs?



I wrote a new bio. If anyone wants to catch up on my life, click on these:
https://www.instagram.com/alisonaglitter/
i gram
https://twitter.com/alisonaglitter
i tweet














Maybe we can all play Spot the Differences with my life 😂

Sunday, October 2, 2011

the yay area

muir beach, ca

Looking back on  the friendships, the memories, and the entire experience of living in Dublin...I am confident I'll live abroad again. Next time it will be Chile or Germany or Spain or Thailand...the possibilities are endless.

Picking up and moving across the globe one year ago made it so simple to do again--I think it gets easier each time. I plan to test that theory!

Right now I am enjoying spending time with my dad, toasting in the California sunshine, eating Mexican food constantly, exploring Oakland with hubs, and making a whole new life. I feel mobile, light, happy.

muir beach, ca

Saturday, September 10, 2011

adios Dublin

farewell party - Against the Grain, Wexford Street, Dublin 2

As most of you already know, my time in Ireland is over. This blog has been a great way for me to keep friends + family caught up with my adventures. As you can imagine, things are on hold for a bit. 

For those of you that don't know, I'm back in the states. Just before my visit, my dad became extremely sick and was hospitalized. On his 65th birthday he was diagnosed with cancer and told me over the phone what was going on. Thanks to a minor surgery and a few meds, my dad recovered from the hospital trip and has started treatment. 

As I was packing to go home, I realized that returning to Dublin probably wasn't an option. I couldn't imagine being 5,000 miles away from an important doctor's appointment or a difficult day of treatment. Hubs and I decided pretty quickly to keep our return flights in order to pack up our stuff in Dublin and move in September.

The last two-and-a-half weeks I spent in Ireland were unforgettable. What a gift--to return to a city I love, see friends, and say a proper goodbye. Everybody was supportive: from the landlord who ignored the lease dates + gave us our full deposit early to the Spanish folks that cleared out our apartment to all the friends who made time for a final drink...I can't thank you enough.

Life is constantly in a state of change and the best I can do is enjoy myself along the way. This change was sudden, but I've had an exciting year. Besides--as every single person in Dublin reminded me--California is certainly not the worst place to go.

my final meal at Crackbird - South Williams Street

check you later - Liberty Lane, Dublin 2

Saturday, September 3, 2011

culture shock: part deux

dear salade nicoise, we met in 2011. thus began our love affair.

After three weeks in the states, it felt odd arriving back in Dublin...as if my brain couldn't decide which place should feel more like home. I saw with fresh eyes; noticed every small differences for the second time around. It's impossible to explain the exact feeling but my association with what felt familiar was off..like I didn't belong anywhere. It's not the most productive thing to do when you move, but I find my tendency is to constantly evaluate the differences between my old home and my new home.

Each tiny perceived 'difference' is merely a cultural norm that exists cohesively within Irish culture. I could easily say things like, 'Irish customer service is worse' or 'Irish public transportation is better' to try and explain what I feel. Though somewhat true, these statements dont even begin to tell the whole story.  Yes, compared to the US, the customer service in Ireland is less attentive...but have you ever been to Spain? And yes, compared to most US cities, it is easier to get around Dublin...but have you seen Germany?

Instead of trying to place arbitrary better/worse labels on every moment, I learn to be thankful for the simple enrichment of living it. Each time somebody says to me, 'good woman' or I turn the corner to see the statue of yet another Irish literary figure, my life is changed. I can almost feel my brain cataloging differences in language, in lifestyle, in visual imagery, in history...every bit is added to the spectrum of my life experience. However corny, this year has been about loving the cultures of the world because of--not despite--our immense diversity. Returning to Ireland helped me to realize it has all been worth it.

With that profound thought out of the way, some snapshots:
 
Irish people make ice in blister packs. it boggles the mind.

nobby's nuts. any questions?

spreading a message of peace


7 years of bad luck right thurr.

obviously it's love. me + Skips + rachel = 4eva.

ladiez night out at the globe

tourists be jumpin' in random pictures.

fashion show at Jervis. the models were 10 yr old babies.

the beautiful + historic Gee Pee Oh

my first feijoada + one more step towards ominvorianism (word?)
 
cheese, guava, + dulce de leche dessert looking straight-up '1979 retro starfish'

mick wallace was making kissy-lips at us all night

this is how we flirt back